One Painted, Two To Go!

So I've got one cabinet painted and ready to go.
The other cabinet is fully gutted and just needs to be masked off for paint this week.
Cabinet number three is still M.I.A ! My co-worker built my two control panel as I mentioned prior. I gave him one of the cabinets to ensure the fit was perfect.
Sadly he keeps forgetting to bring it to work, or when he does I've left for the day. Ah well...........no rush I guess !

Today I also managed to get out to a local Auto Parts store to pick up some needed parts. I got my security bit set which is awesome! I also picked up some random connectors and some wire. I also managed to get the rest of the paint I would need for these projects this week.

I've contacted Bob Roberts about placing an order. I'm still waiting on a price from him. I'm having a hard time online locating the parts I need. So I figure with the strong Canadian dollar I really cant go wrong. The shipping is very reasonable @ Bob Roberts and I can't see him having any hidden fees (such as brokerage) .

Onto Painting !

I'm not in any rush to bang these cabinets out. I really want them to be done well, look clean, and function great. I'm taking my time every step of the way. As always with any project you have some trial and error. I decided I would mask and start painting today. Two of the three bar tops have a wood grain top panel. I decided I would paint it in a flat black. I love flat black spray paint, it's very forgiving!
I also masked off the coin mechs and the bottom swivel base of the machine.

The first machine will be a bright orange Krylon paint. I found that I don't like the new Krylon tip, took me some time to get used to. I had many runs on my first crack. I found I was better served to paint the entire cabinet in the flat black first and then apply the orange over top. It isn't done yet, but I think it will look great.

After I got the top painted I masked it off as to avoid over spray.

Wiring

Bar none the most daunting part of this task.
I've never done anything like this before. It will even be my 1st experience soldering. Needless to say I'm very nervous. I have this fear something will blow up, catch on fire, blind me, just all sorts of fears. However I am taking my time and trying to make sure I fully understand what I am doing. As I take something apart I try to study it, take note of which wire goes where, and take lots of pictures.
Sadly during my last cabinet destruction I didn't quite do that.
However I do think I have a decent grasp of what needs to be done.

Vertical Mount

For these machines to display the correct image for my 48-in-1 boards the monitors would need to be rotated. In the 1st cabinet I could tell this had been done prior, and the bracket was already cut and able to accommodate the monitor. However in the second cabinet that wasn't the case. I checked to make sure the hole cut in the 1st bracket would indeed accommodate the monitor. Then I traced out the template onto a piece of wood so I could cut it out. The monitor in the second cabinet was mounted onto a metal housing that also secured the chassis. On the sides of the cabinet two pieces of wood were fitted leaving a small gap in the top of the cabinet. The metal housing simply slid into place. I decided to remove the chassis and monitor from the housing as it would make the monitor installation easier.

Cabinet Two

I've got cabinet two almost fully gutted.
I decided I would clean it out so I can finish working on it.

Monitor Questions pt. II

I also noticed on the chassis a connection for the yoke.
One of the connections says V.YOKE the other H.YOKE.
Again easy enough to determined that V is for vertical, and H horizontal.
Only thing is I don't know which connection is which!
I know I would require the V.YOKE to be connected as my monitor orientation is
vertical. However I'm unsure if the V.YOKE connection is the connection below the
typing V.YOKE or if it's the one above the typing V.YOKE

Monitor Questions pt. I

As I'm taking apart the bar top I'm trying hard to study the way it was put together.
What goes where in terms of wiring etc. As noted this will be the 1st time I've ever done anything like this from scratch.

I noticed on the monitor chassis two switches.
They read :

POSI-H-NEGA & POSI-V-NEGA

I can figure out that one is for HORIZONTAL orientation, the other VERTICAL.
For my needs the monitor would need a vertical orientation. So I would assume the "V" switch would be "POSI" and the "H" switch "NEGA."

I just have to figure out which is the top and which is the bottom, but I think the top has the suction cup from the fly back.

Just About Ready To Paint

So a little more time was spent working on the cabinet.
It's now fully apart and just about ready for paint.
I went to a local arcade auction today (what a bust) so nothing much else got done.
Tomorrow I'll need to goto a local Auto Parts store to pick up the security bit to remove the coin mechs. But once I have that done I can mask and paint.
Perhaps later on this evening I'll get downstairs and clean up the rest of the parts.

Pic's Continued

Almost Fully Gutted

Went downstairs after work to finish gutting the cabinet.
I'd like to get it painted come Sunday.
With the exception of the coin return it's fully done.
I'll need to track down the correct bit/screwdriver to remove the coin return.
I took the pictures of the monitor connections so I will know how to assemble it again. Now it's off to read the tutorial from Bob Roberts on how to wire up and arcade cabinet.

A Few More Pics Of The Progress

Just a few more pictures of the gutting stage.
I'd hope to have the cabinet fully gutted by Friday.
That way perhaps this weekend I can begin painting the cabinet.
I'm going to try and wire everything outside of the cabinet to make sure I've got it correct before installing all the wiring.

I'm going to have a ton of questions !

A couple things I've noted so far while doing this project.
** My Sanwa joystick easily fits through the pre-drilled hole in the control panel.
It's a lil short but otherwise seems fine **

** It looks as if the monitor was previously installed horizontally in the cabinet. This should make for an easy rotation when I reinstall it **

** Sadly the pre-drilled button holes are too small for my Hori buttons. I don't want to replace the control panel so I'm hoping I can easily enlarge them **

Bar Top Begin

I've had some issues drilling out the locks on the bar top's. But this week I was determined to get it done. One of the three bar tops is with a co-worker who graciously built me the required control panels I would need to turn them into 48-in-1's. The other two are at home with me. So I decided I would tackle the two machines for now so I could begin the prep work for turning these into 48-in-1's.
When I picked the machines up I was told I would need to drill the locks. The seller asked me, "Do you know how to do it?" to which I told him, "Oh ya, of course."
He showed me none the less, needless to say I didn't pay attention. I've turned the locks (on the bar top I'm selling) into a bloody mess. Oddly enough on the bar top I'm keeping I was able to drill out all four locks with ease. I didn't even make a mess of them! They obviously don't work, but they look perfect.

With the locks drilled out I decided I would begin gutting the cabinet.
I have brand new 48-in-1 boards and brand new jamma harnesses for the cabinets.
All I need to keep from the bar tops are the power supply's and monitors. As I begin gutting them I do feel a little over my head. I'm not really sure how to wire them.
I've researched a ton about how to wire a jamma cabinet, but not for one second did I think about how will the machines power up ? I didn't really pay much attention to the monitor and chassis.

As usual I'm sure I will count heavily on the help of the guys over @ www.cgcc.ca .
I think the machines might take me a little longer then I thought but I'm hoping I figure it out.

The idea is keep one and sell the other two.

I've included some pictures in this post.

Bar Top Break Down

BAR TOP MACHINES = $100 FOR 3 ($33.00)
48-IN-1 BOARDS = $180 FOR 3 ($60.00) *SHIPPED*
JAMMA HARNESS = $35 FOR 3 ($11.50) *SHIPPED*
SPRAY PAINT = $62
SANWA JOYSTICKS = $45 FOR 3 ($15.00)
HORI BUTTONS = $15 FOR 15 ($1.00)
TOOLS & WIRING = $35
CONTROL PANELS = FU*T! (SEE THE BLOG FOR DETAILS...THANKS "FM")
SWITCHES & WIRING = $40
MULTI-METER = $23
JLF WIRING HARNESS x 5 = $20
MDF & MISC HARDWARE = $10
ART SAMPLES = $10
15" LCD MONITOR = $40
SIDE ART = $40
SOLDER WIRE = $7
CRIMP TOOL + WIRE = $25
POWER SUPPLY x 3 = $40
15" LCD MONITOR = $20

*** Still to buy :


15" LCD Monitor x 2

TOTAL = $747 TO DATE ($249 EACH)